tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-71170382830670375162007-12-24T17:09:49.239-08:00Travel in Spain and PortugalClaude OstynBlogger13125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7117038283067037516.post-76547924060753100922007-12-24T17:03:00.000-08:002007-12-24T17:09:49.264-08:00DONA JILL’S BACALHAO TIA CELINHA<a href="http://www.saranjan.com/blog/uploaded_images/084_84-757319.JPG"><img style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://www.saranjan.com/blog/uploaded_images/084_84-757314.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><div>Christmas Eve in Sintra always features the soul of Portuguese cuisine—bacalhao, dried codfish. The recipe also calls for cabbage, hard boiled eggs, potatoes, carrots and a rich béchamel sauce, to be enjoyed with a hearty red wine from the Douro or Alentejo.<br /><br />The dish recalls Portugal’s glory days as much as the great Monument to the Discoveries that stands in Lisbon’s Belém quarter, overlooking the Tagus River. Bacalhao is a reminder that the Portuguese sailed to America long before the Spanish—to conquer the rich shoals of cod off Newfoundland. And they kept their discovery to themselves, the better to profit from caravels laden with salted codfish. </div>Flor da Rosatag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7117038283067037516.post-38656311588088288662007-12-20T17:44:00.000-08:002007-12-20T17:49:17.372-08:00FIRST TAKE A DOZEN EGG YOLKS<a href="http://www.saranjan.com/blog/uploaded_images/P-pastries-739761.JPG"><img style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://www.saranjan.com/blog/uploaded_images/P-pastries-739706.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><div>It’s not surprising that a country where the one time largest supermarket chain was called Pao de Acucar/Sugarbread would take its pastry making seriously. Every region of Portugal has its specialties, and many are based on eggs, sugar, more eggs, and almonds. We’ve been following the sugar trail home to Sintra for the holidays…in anticipation.<br /><br />Our family favorite is the Travesseiro; in the world of Portuguese desserts, this candied pumpkin wrapped in a tissue of pastry is a light-weight, melt in your mouth wonder—a wonder even though it is not named for a favorite dowager aunt or remote corner of Lusitania. The Travesseiro is not a Suspiro de Mancarra or a Queijadinha da Tia Aninhas. Nor does it call for a dozen egg yolks. It is Portuguese pastry-lite.<br /><br />But when we want to truly indulge, there is only one Portuguese specialty that satisfies-- a Toucinho do Ceu de Portalegre, a name that roughly translates as Heavenly Fat from Portalegre. This potentially heart-stopping pudding requires 500 grams of sugar, 250 of water and ground almonds, 60 of flour, 50 of butter, 9 egg yolks and 3 whites. It is well worth the risk. </div>Flor da Rosatag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7117038283067037516.post-61967293967807762252007-12-19T12:19:00.000-08:002007-12-19T12:26:32.298-08:00JAMON JAMON<a href="http://www.saranjan.com/blog/uploaded_images/hams-on-the-hoof-707890.JPG"><img style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://www.saranjan.com/blog/uploaded_images/hams-on-the-hoof-707886.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><a href="http://www.saranjan.com/blog/uploaded_images/hams-hanging-707918.JPG"><img style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://www.saranjan.com/blog/uploaded_images/hams-hanging-707914.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><div>Who would drive 6 hours roundtrip just to purchase a ham? A Portuguese gourmand, for whom a 6 hour return trip is not all work. Badajoz is 3 hours from Lisbon, its shops the nearest purveyors of the one thing the Portuguese will admit is better in Spain—the famed black hooved/pata negra ham. And specifically, it’s the famed Cinco Jotas that is most prized.<br /><br />What makes this ham unlike all others? Terroir. It comes from compact, shaggy black haired pigs that roam freely under the cork oak of the Extremadura hillsides where they feed on acorns, their preferred fodder, until they have developed just the right balance of fat and muscle. Striations of fat in the meat combine with a nutty flavor to make this the king of jamones. A ham will be carried back home to Portugal to repose on a purpose-built sling from which one can more easily shave the slivers of succulent flesh. And what to accompany it? A few olives from local trees and a glass of Borba tinto from the Alentejo. </div>Flor da Rosatag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7117038283067037516.post-19374291001601835472007-12-14T16:52:00.000-08:002007-12-14T17:19:44.453-08:00Urban Fusion<a href="http://www.saranjan.com/blog/uploaded_images/185_185-721599.JPG"><img style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://www.saranjan.com/blog/uploaded_images/185_185-721596.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><div></div><br /><div>Lisbon is now on the map as a hot European design center. Whether wandering through the Santos quarter with its new emporiums showcasing young Portuguese designers or venturing into the rapidly gentrifying Bairro Alto, you'll find exciting, affordable new designs--from furniture to jewelry. </div><br /><div></div><br /><div>On a recent trip to Lisbon we wandered up Rua da Rosa, and stopped at Les Mauvais Garçons for a light Continental lunch. This charming bistro would be equally at home in Paris' Marais or Lisbon's quirky Bairro Alto. <a href="http://www.lesmauvaisgarçons.pt/">http://www.lesmauvaisgarçons.pt/</a> </div><br /><div></div><br /><div>After lunch we crossed the street to explore Urban Fusion. This airy upside down boutique features European design items as well as works by the owner Katia Gonçalves. The artist/owner shows and sells a line of her soft furnishings and light fixtures. Reasonably priced, we walked out with bags full of clever holiday gifts. We returned later by taxi to Rua da Rosa 14 to pick up the Red Lady. <a href="http://www.urbanfusion.pt/">http://www.urbanfusion.pt/</a> </div><br /><div></div>Flor da Rosatag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7117038283067037516.post-63952194600116500982007-12-13T09:54:00.001-08:002007-12-13T09:54:46.253-08:00Flor da Rosatag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7117038283067037516.post-15470417496436085622007-12-13T09:31:00.000-08:002007-12-13T13:17:32.565-08:00Holy Family<a href="http://www.saranjan.com/blog/uploaded_images/xmas-P-belen-boy-&-sheep-797370.JPG"><img style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; CURSOR: hand; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="http://www.saranjan.com/blog/uploaded_images/xmas-P-belen-boy-&-sheep-797344.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><div></div><br /><br /><div>The Alentejo region to the east of Lisbon, Portugal is known for its slow growing cork oak, rolling wheatfields and hillsides covered in olive trees crowned by white washed villages and the occasional Moorish castle. Historically one of the poorest parts of the country, and the first to 'go Communist' on the death of the dictator Salazar, today the region is enjoying a revival, thanks to its natural beauty, vineyard potential and ceramics tradition. </div><br /><br /><div></div><br /><br /><div>A traveler can still glimpse free range pigs and cattle grazing under the cork oak, shepherds and cowboys tending their stock, and small rural towns like Redondo where the pace of life belongs to another era. When touring in the Alentejo, we always stop in Redondo to buy a piece of pottery from one of the local producers. This year the shops were closed for a special event--a young shepherd and the Holy Family were in town. </div>Flor da Rosatag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7117038283067037516.post-75088709453732601522007-12-12T19:18:00.000-08:002007-12-12T19:23:53.876-08:00BETHLEHEM OH BETHLEHEM<a href="http://www.saranjan.com/blog/uploaded_images/xmas-Monsaraz-17-770517.JPG"><img style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://www.saranjan.com/blog/uploaded_images/xmas-Monsaraz-17-770484.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><div>Belenes, Christmas creches, are not unique to Spain and Portugal but the ones we saw this year were impressive. In Granada, booths were selling all the pieces—angels, the Virgin, Baby Jesus and even sausage makers under the palm trees. In Sevilla, small children toured the Belenes at nightfall as the lights illuminated Plaza Nueva and the great Cathedral built on the foundations of the 10th c mosque.<br /><br />Across the border in Portugal, we came upon a rather special Belen in the village of Monsaraz--life size papier mache camels mounted by the Three Wise Men, shepherds, sheep and donkeys, all processing down the village’s main street, past the woman at the well and beggars on the church steps, towards Baby Jesus where He lay in a manager overlooked by an old Moorish tower lit with a star. This vision set the mood for our overnight in an convent in the Alentejo mountains where we were the only guests. And the next day as we drove through the Alentejo towards Lisbon, we came upon the real thing—all the village children gathering in the central praca and dressed for their part. There were shepherds with live lambs, three wise men, village women…and watching over the angels, Joseph, Mary and a real live Baby Jesus stood a very patient mule. </div>Flor da Rosatag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7117038283067037516.post-34741986206693443022007-08-30T15:12:00.000-07:002007-08-30T15:40:04.344-07:00Spirit of Galicia<a href="http://www.saranjan.com/blog/uploaded_images/horerro-722107.JPG"><img style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://www.saranjan.com/blog/uploaded_images/horerro-721629.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />The land around the mouth of the Mino in Spain and Portugal opens like a vision of a dream world firmly anchored to the land.--Miguel de Unamuno<br /><br /><br /><br />They say Galicia is a book in stone written in granite bound in moss. Ulysses is said to have etched his initials along the coast; Irish kings in flight from Saxons scattered their dolmen-tombs; Druid priests left traces of their ancient rites in labyrinths. And St. James/Santiago s holy boat was allegedly tethered to a pedron which is still visible in an ancient church. Chapter after chapter the stone-work went on: Roman bridges Romanesque churches Baroque manor houses granaries and granite staked grape-arbors.<br /><br /><br /><br />Galicia s riverlands mountains and bucolic forests tell another story--less grounded more dream-like. Traverse this dreamscape and you'll find mountain spas where Druids once celebrated unspoiled beaches where Columbus' Captain Pinzón landed in 1493 irridescent green riverlands secreting shrine sites and watering the vineyards that produce the prized wines made from local varietals--albariño godello treixadura. And a network of manor house hotels/casas rurales guarantee accommodation of great character history and with a warm welcome.<br /><br /><br /><p></p><br /><br /><p>Flor da Rosa</p>Flor da Rosatag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7117038283067037516.post-32351969900049966172007-06-18T15:52:00.000-07:002007-06-18T16:03:08.030-07:00CAMELS IN THE VINEYARDS<a href="http://www.saranjan.com/blog/uploaded_images/bike-camel-754867.JPG"><img style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://www.saranjan.com/blog/uploaded_images/bike-camel-754818.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><div></div><br /><div></div><br /><div></div><br /><div></div><br /><div>Rioja is wine country. Nestled under the Cantabrian range to the north and buffered by the Pyrenees to the east, this protected area of Spain is associated with cutting edge wineries, chic new hotels and traditional restaurants preparing award-winning dishes. The wine growing appellation is divided into three subzones—Rioja alta, alavesa, baja—each with its distinct terroir. No visit to Rioja is complete without a glass of tinto accompanied by some roasted red peppers and cheese. But the region offers more than just the pleasures of the table.<br /><br />For the lover of soft adventure, the pleasures of cycling the rail to trail routes in Rioja are a perfect complement to the wine—a full body satisfying experience. Descend from Rioja alavesa to Rioja alta between vineyards, alongside rivers, into a gorge and discover the riches of Rioja—an ancient necropolis and a 21st century winery, a pilgrimage church alongside a boutique, a spa village whose waters wind through a valley to dinosaur tracks. And there are more than a few surprises for the observant cyclist. </div>Flor da Rosatag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7117038283067037516.post-67887693641331022862007-05-17T14:30:00.000-07:002007-05-17T17:14:17.273-07:00FLEETING GLORY<a href="http://www.saranjan.com/blog/uploaded_images/Valendia-AC-6-734815.JPG"><img style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://www.saranjan.com/blog/uploaded_images/Valendia-AC-6-734766.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><div>This spring and summer America's Cup comes to Valencia. The oldest sporting trophy in the world, in 1851 the schooner America beat the best of the British in a race around the Isle of Wight. The inscribed CUP was donated to the New York Yacht Club and bequeathed as a challenge cup, since contested 31 times. The rules of the race changed in 1970, the race name changed to the Louis Vuitton Cup, and The NYYC lost the CUP for the first time in 1983.<br /><br />The Swiss Team Alinghi triumphed in New Zealand in 2003 and is thus the Defender of America's Cup. Landlocked Switzerland needed a big stretch of water to race across. Valencia on the Mediterranean was chosen as the perfect race host.<br /><br />Just outside the new port development, 12 teams will race the same course at once as well as going mano a mano in match race regattas. The race has always been about technology and skill. The mylar, carbon fiber, kevlar sails often only last the race. Alinghi has 6 master sailmakers turning out 20 sails a month to supply the 4 years of regattas that culminate in Valencia between April and June 2007. Their design team at the Ecole Polytechnique Federale de Lausanne has been refining draft, keel, hull, mast weight, sail performance--all for the fleeting glory that may be theirs to keep. Watch for sail numbers SU164, SU175, SU191 in Valencia this spring and early summer.<br /><br />In past races, teams have hidden their keels--often the secret to success--beneath modesty skirts. No such discretion on show at the port today where scantily clad sports divas and team followers sunned themselves overlooking the harbor in the City of Light. Once a favorite subject of Picasso's, today Valencia is a picture again--all tarted up to hand over the CUP and the fleeting glory that will belong to the 2007 winner. </div>Flor da Rosatag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7117038283067037516.post-58292114901648909732007-05-03T17:22:00.000-07:002007-05-03T18:31:00.102-07:00Riding the Cadiz Coast<a href="http://www.saranjan.com/blog/uploaded_images/Riding-at-Tarifa-1-737353.JPG"><img style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://www.saranjan.com/blog/uploaded_images/Riding-at-Tarifa-1-737351.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><div>I started out my adventure by choosing a helmet from the stable's extensive supply of safety headgear. The stable has a wide selection of traditional Spanish and English saddles. Both types are in perfectly serviceable condition and come in enough sizes to fit you and the horse. Spanish saddles are actually more comfortable than American western saddles. The stable also offers rides for a variety of experience levels to meet your personal needs.<br /><br />After choosing my helmet, I came eye-to-eye with a short, fluffy red gelding known as Sunrise (which I'm assuming was a Peruvian Paso). My ride started out along the beach under a bright blue sky with a light breeze. Despite it being only early April, the sun was warm, and sea birds called to one another while I listened to the muffled smack of horse hooves hitting wet sand. <br /><br />We spent the better part of an hour trotting and galloping over the sand in the peace and quiet of Tarifa, after which we headed for the green hills of the surrounding area. Up in the hills, the livestock of the local farmers roam free grazing. You can always hear the jingle of the bells around the necks of the cows and sheep wandering from place to place, as well as the clatter they make when the horses startle them. If you get far enough up into the hills, you can see the coast of Africa in the hazy distance.<br /><br />Spanish horses also know which way is "home." When we turned back towards the stables, the horses quickened their pace and perked their ears forward. For some of them, it was the most enthusiasm they'd shown all morning. After arriving back in the stable yard, I took the saddle off Sunrise's sweaty back and gave him a good-bye scratch around his ears, taking with me memories of one of the best parts of my trip to Spain. -- Contributed by Sarah la Menor.</div>Flor da Rosatag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7117038283067037516.post-85098483382137018112007-04-10T02:53:00.000-07:002007-04-22T11:59:28.037-07:00Africa Calling in Lisbon<a href="http://www.saranjan.com/blog/uploaded_images/Lisbon-tram-792051.JPG"><img style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://www.saranjan.com/blog/uploaded_images/Lisbon-tram-791990.JPG" border="0" /></a><br />Close to Lisbon's great monuments in Belén, from where the Voyages of Discovery set sail for Africa in the 16th century, is the district of Alcântara. In one of those poetic twists of history, a neighborhood named for a Crusading Military Order of the Middle Ages, bent on conquest, is today a cultural center for the descendants of enslaved and once colonized Africans. As the Portuguese Empire unraveled into civil wars following the death of the Dictator Salazar and the Carnation Revolution of 1975, immigrants fled the chaos for the safety of Portugal. Today, as with immigrants everywhere in the world, they sing of a lost homeland in their native tongue.<br />Casa das Mornas in Alcântara is a lively cultural center, with a bar gallery where locally based African artists show their works, the barman prepares caiparinhas and other tropical drinks, and the restaurant serves up Cape Verdean specialties. The owner Bana, now in his late 70s, moved to Portugal thirty years ago and still sings rhythmic mornas, the Cabo Verdean Blues, while diners enjoy good food and wine in a chic modern setting, the walls covered in portraits of famous musicians, including Bana himself. The audience the night I was there ranged from age 20 to 70, including local Portuguese and criollos from the colonies. If at night's end the sophisticated, laid back club is not enough, the night is still young at 2am and the nearby Cabo Verdean dance clubs are just starting up.Flor da Rosatag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7117038283067037516.post-56084155041371766492007-03-04T19:05:00.000-08:002007-04-22T12:03:47.743-07:00HEAVENLY HARVEST<a href="http://www.saranjan.com/blog/uploaded_images/olives-Priorot-4-746701.JPG"><img style="FLOAT: right; MARGIN: 0px 0px 10px 10px; CURSOR: hand" alt="" src="http://www.saranjan.com/blog/uploaded_images/olives-Priorot-4-744249.JPG" border="0" /></a><br /><div>Harvest has come and gone in Montsant, one of the subzones of Priorat in Catalunya. The air is damp cold and the sky deep blue above the massif that overhangs the village of Morera de Montsant, home to Pasanau Germans, one of the appellation's finest producers. Before nightfall I had to reach Escala Deí, literally Stairway to Heaven, home to the first bodega in the region when it only produced communion wines. The old bodega is still there, alongside new producers of excellent wines. Cultivation of grapes in these soils dates back millennia, as does the cultivation of olives.<br />But today's harvest story was among the olive trees. Outside the walls of the ruined monastery, men carded branches with electric, rubber tipped rakes the way you might fleece sheep; and multicolored arbequina fruit fell into the nets stretched over the ground. This highly prized fruit is an aromatic balance of bitter almond and bright fruits, a metaphor for this harsh yet alluring landscape. The arbequina arrived in Catalunya by way of Arab-ruled Mallorca in the Middle Ages, and became a commercial crop in the 18th century thanks to the support of the Lord of Arbequa.<br />As with grapes, so with olives—many varietals, many growing regions. Spain's olive production accounts for 44% of the worlds' supply. The first European DO/Denominación de Origen was established in the Catalan province of Lleida in 1975. Elsewhere growers have banded together into co-ops to regulate quality. It was easy to imagine the harvesters in another age, at work outside the walls of an active monastery to supply the monks and the community with much prized oil.</div>Flor da Rosa